McBain Blog

Capture the Earth Without Costing It. Small Photography Shifts, Big Impact.

2026-04-22T10:13:10-05:00

Photographers share a unique bond with nature. We see a lot of beauty, and as we honour Earth Day, we’re reminded that our cameras do more than capture landscapes – they help us advocate for them. Earth Day isn’t necessarily about perfection– but it is about awareness. It’s an invitation to move beyond the lens and consider how we give back to the environment that provides us with as much inspiration.

Below, we highlight 5 ways you can start making an impact in your craft:

1. Support Sustainable Gear

Every purchase sends a message when you choose which camera bag, accessory, or piece of equipment you welcome into your family. Buying accessories or camera bags made with recycled materials encourages companies to produce responsibly while also lowering the carbon footprint of your creative work.

There are a few names in the game that center their products around sustainable materials and practices. When shopping for camera accessories or bags, here are some environmentally conscious brands you’ll want to keep in mind:

LoweproLowpro explicitly states its environmental responsibility policy as part of its brand values. They launched a Green Line of camera bags, where products feature a green line logo to indicate their sustainability level, showing how much recycled or responsibly sourced material is in each product. They measure sustainability using standards like GRI 301-2, which tracks the percentage of recycled yarn in fabrics. They have also transitioned to PFC-free water-resistant coatings, reducing harmful chemicals in production. Some Lowepro bags are made with as much as 75% recycled materials including the packaging. They also use solution-dyeing processes that reduce water use by up to 80% compared with traditional dyeing.
Peak Design
Peak Design’s sustainability efforts are supported by several independent certifications and memberships, including the Certified B Corporation (meeting high standards of social and environmental performance). They have measurable targets to improve the sustainability of their products, with a projected 90% of their primary fabrics to come from recycled materials by 2027. Peak Design has taken rare steps to measure its entire carbon footprint and offset it since the company began. They actively fund and advocate for environmental and conservation causes through nonprofits such as The Conservation Alliance.
Urth
Urth gear is designed with sustainability in mind. Their backpacks are made with approximately 70% recycled materials (especially recycled nylon), which helps divert textiles from landfill without compromising durability. Tree planting is a core part of Urth’s sustainability strategy, where they plant one tree for every product sold – contributing to ecosystem restoration. Their strategy is to offset the carbon impact of production to create a net-positive effect on the environment. They also continuously search for low-impact materials, refining their designs to minimize material during production. Urth’s packaging avoids single-use plastics, using recycled materials instead. It’s a mission with purpose.

2. Recharge, Recycle Batteries

Between Cameras, flashes, and accessories, photographers go through a lot of
batteries – especially on long shoots. One of the easiest ways to make a small environmental impact is by taking care of your batteries. Here are a few tips to maximize your battery health:

Charge Before They Are Empty
Lithium-ion batteries last longer when they’re topped up before hitting 0%. Try recharging when your battery charge cycle is hovering around 20-30%
Avoid Overcharging
Leaving batteries plugged in overnight is occasionally okay, but consistently doing so can shorten their lifespan.
Rotate Multiple Batteries
Cycling through your batteries helps them wear evenly – and ensures you’re never caught without power.

And finally, when your battery reaches the end of its cycle, it’s important to be mindful of how you dispose of it. Many local recycling depots and electronics stores accept used batteries, keeping harmful materials out of landfills.

3. Print with Purpose

While photo printing isn’t free from enviromental impact, when done with intention and care, you can easily reduce clutter and waste. Here a few tips you can follow to keep your environmental footprint in check when printing:

Curate your Photos
Instead of letting thousands of images live unseen on hard drives
1. Curate and print your favourite
2. Choose quality over quantity
3. Use labs and materials that prioritize sustainable practices when possible
Look for Energy Star & EPeat Ratings
Many Canon printers (especially larger formats like imagePROGRAF) have ENERGY STAR and EPEAT Gold certifications - meaning they meet internationally recognized standards for energy efficiency and lower environmental impact.
Refillable Ink & Recycled Materials
Look for MegaTank/MAXIFY printers that use refillable ink tanks – a big sustainability benefit if you print often.
Canon Recycling Programs
Canon offers cartridge and hardware recycling programs to keep consumables and old devices out of landfills.
Choose your Paper wisely
Printing on FSC-certified, recycled, or sustainably sourced photo papers dramatically improves the environmental footprint of your prints.

A thoughtfully printed image is more likely to be treasured—and far less likely to be forgotten.

4. Rescue Your Film, Preserve Your Memories

Remember that film you dropped off for developing and/or scanning? It’s still in the dark about what’s next - literally. Every captured moment forsaken, abandoned to a life of eternal obscurity. Snapshots of your life- just vanished! Okay, maybe not that dramatic, but you would be shocked how many rolls of film get ghosted after being dropped off.

And while we’d love to hold onto every roll indefinitely, abandoned negatives must be binned after a certain period to keep our lab space running efficiently. We can only hold onto negatives for so long before we are required to dispose of them. Your negatives have gone through a long journey behind the scenes. Bringing them home is a small way to complete that story.

5. Sell, Trade-In, Trade-Up, or Donate

When we go buy new gear, we put so much research, discipline, and intention into making sure we stretch every last dollar, and we purchase in ways that align with our ethics. I wonder what the ripple effect would be if we were equally intentional about the gear we left behind. That camera sitting on the shelf? The lens you upgraded from last year? It’s sitting in a drawer or box that could fuel someone else’s creative journey! It’s time to give it a second life or ethically dispose of it.

Trade-In or Sell

McBain offers a really great Trade-In program that will give you a fair appraisal on so many pieces of equipment, you’d be reckless not to explore this. The program allows credit to be applied to future purchases on your account, while our Red Deer branch lets you explore a cash exchange option.

Recycle/Donate

Edmonton offers an array of Eco Stations and Electronic Depots to drop off old gear that is easily accessible within our city limits:

City of Edmonton Eco Stations:

Strathcona Eco Station: 5150-99 Street NW
Kennedale Eco Station: 5355 127 Avenue NW
Ambleside Eco Station: 14710 Ellerslie Road SW
Coronation Eco Station: 11440 143 Street

Specialized Electronic Recyclers:

Electronic Recycling Association (ERA): Accept old, broken, or working cameras, focusing on refurbishing for community donation, or safe recycling
Find Retail + Donation Centre: Partners with eCycle Solutions to accept various electronic devices
Quantum Lifecycle Partners: focusing on secure data destruction and component recover

Retail Drop-Offs:

London Drugs: Frequently part of the Electronic Recycling Association network. They offer in-store drop-offs for small electronics, including cameras, under their waste reduction program
Staples: Often have electronics recycling bins near the entrance for cameras and small peripherals.

Donate:

Rare Earth Outreach: Accepts donated cameras to deliver Photography Programming for groups with limited access to equipment.
More Than a Fad Thrift Store: a local thrift store accepting donations to support community initiatives.
Bissell Thrift Shop: Accepts cameras and other household items to support community services.
Edmonton Photographic Historic Society: Accepts vintage or historic camera donations.
Inclusion Alberta: Camera Donations and funds are used to directly support children and adults with developmental disabilities and their families.
Find.: Will accept Antiques & collectibles for gear. A social enterprise providing furnishings free of charge to individuals & families that are newly rehoused.

Our Final Thought

Photography is all about preserving what matters—moments, people, places.

Earth Day is a reminder that the world we capture deserves that same care and intention. And while no one gets it perfect, small, mindful choices in how we shoot and care for our craft can add up to something meaningful over time.

5 Sigma Lenses to Inspire Your Holiday Photos

2024-11-07T16:30:51-06:00

Michael J. Fox once said, “Family is not an important thing; it’s everything.” Walking the frosted paths in silence while watching the leaves gently fall, I am most reminded of family. There’s something about a vibrant tonal tapestry blanketing the earth that reminds me that even in the muted carpet of withered foliage, there is beauty in every leaf from every family tree. And the paradox of strength and fragility all the same lures me to want to capture every single moment for exactly what it is: everything.

I could lead you down a poetic bunny trail with this, but at the heart of capturing your best family moments is the lens through which you see them. To capture the breadth of everything family these holidays, I’d encourage you to look to Sigma. I’ll bet I can personally match a memory for every lens!

One of my earliest holiday memories is the chaotic frenzy of cousins that I’d get to play hide-and-seek with. I can’t help but envy all the photographs missed of the sharp-angled positions we’d contort our bodies into trying to remain unseen. If someone had a Sigma 16mm Prime f/1.4, the perspectives they would have captured would have been incredible. It’s a fast lens and performs amazingly in low-light conditions, which would have boded well for sunset documenting our fast agility in racing to “Home Free”. Even Sigma’s 18-50mm f/2.8 would be a reliable contender too and would be a great bridge from chronicling your children’s hide-and-seek adventures to candid photos around the dinner table given its focal range and portability. Its autofocus system is also fast and quiet which makes it a win for both still photography and video.

If most of the holiday action will be indoors, and you want to find a merry medley between group photos and intimate portraits, I can’t cheerfully endorse Sigma’s 24-70mm f/2.8 anymore. I’ve photographed entire weddings with this lens alone. In the spirit of holiday magic, I see this lens not as “an important thing”... but as “everything”. Do you want sharp and versatile? This is it. It’s the lens that lets you zoom in or out - depending on the chaos- and keeps it consistent across its zoom range with beautiful depth of field control.

Personally, while I loved the chaos of family and holidays, I found stealing quiet moments of retreat necessary. Sometimes I’d just sit in a sea of screaming children as if I were paused in time while everyone else was in fast-forward. It's in these moments, that I was able to lean into my prime artistic instincts with Sigma’s 85mm f/1.4 prime. There’s something about standing still, zooming in and the blur of distractions that brings creative vision into full view. There’s a reason they call this lens “Portrait Perfection”. Its high optical performance delivers the sharpest images with minimal distortions. A fast f/1.4 aperture means the bokeh you’ll get in subject separation will lend itself amazingly to creative compositions. It really is the artist’s lens.

Sometimes, though, stepping away from the chaos isn’t enough to catch your breath. Sometimes stepping outside entirely is what you need to zoom out. Family is as much the place(s) that we root ourselves in as it is the people we build relationships with. When you zoom out to photograph your family’s homestead with a Sigma 10-18mm f/2.8 lens, you’re taking it all in and saying “This is us. We lived here. We loved here”. This ultra-wide lightweight lens packs ultra-wide love because it really does capture the expansive scenes of not only your home and neighbourhood, but it creatively allows you to silently take a step back and soak it all in while the lens brings it all together to warp your memory in a bow.

However you’re reflecting on family this season, remember to just soak it in and capture it all at every angle. And let Sigma do the rest.

» Shop Sigma Lenses

How To Master High Speed Sync For Action Shots

2023-09-06T16:59:05-05:00

Head image by Matt Hernandez. Sony Alpha 7R V. Sony 24-70mm f/2.8 G Master. 1/1600-sec., f/4, ISO 200

Capturing peak action is an incredible photographic feat. An image of an athlete frozen in a dive, leap, swing, or other movement is peak eye candy for viewers and photographers alike. However, capturing that action can become technically difficult. You’ll need a high shutter speed, which may require boosting the ISO, unless you bring in lights, which can get complicated quickly. Alpha Universe sat down with sports and senior photographer Matt Hernandez (@MattHernandez) to learn how he uses high speed sync with off camera flash and his Sony Alpha 1 to freeze action.

Photo by Matt Hernandez. Sony Alpha 1. Sony 24-70mm f/2.8 G Master. 1/600-sec., f/8, ISO 400

Why Use High Speed Sync?

High speed sync allows you to use a shutter speed that is above the normal flash sync speed on most digital cameras. There are a few other ways you freeze action or lower your shutter speed. You can use flash duration or neutral density filters. While both are solid options, flash duration is better for indoor shoots, if you’re shooting an athlete outdoors, high speed sync allows you to underexpose the background of the image for a more dramatic effect. Neutral density filters, which essentially work as sunglasses on your camera, allow you to lower your settings to the maximum sync speeds, but your shutter speed isn’t going to be high enough to freeze action. So both roads lead us back to high speed sync.

Set The Basics

Shooting with his Sony Alpha 1, Hernandez has a few rules that he always follows when shooting an action portrait. First, he says that your base shutter speed should be 1/1000-second, that should be fast enough to freeze most action. Next, he sets his aperture. “A lot of my action shots I'll shoot at 24mm or around that because I want the background to be really prominent. And if you’re shooting like that, f/5.6 to f/8 is where you’d ideally like to be.” This aperture helps make sure the subject is sharp. However, Hernandez says that with the focus tracking on the Sony cameras, he could stop down even lower and doesn’t have to worry too much about sharpness. For example, in the image below, Hernandez used high speed sync and was at f/2.8 and "because the autofocus on his Alpha 1 is so good, the image turned out sharp."

Photo by Matt Hernandez. Sony Alpha 1. Sony 24-70mm f/2.8 G Master. 1/8000-sec., f/2.8. ISO 64

Finally, Hernandez recommends shooting on flash, though he told us that since he recently got the Sony Alpha 7R V, he’s been really impressed with its auto white balance.

Setting High Speed Sync

Depending on which lights you’re using, you’ll set up high speed sync in the menu system. On his YouTube channel, Hernandez shows how you do this on a Westcott light.

Once you’ve dialed in your settings, you’re ready to capture action! For more inspiration on this technique, check out Hernandez’s Instagram account (@MattHernandez). And to learn more, check out his YouTube Channel.

This article was originally posted to Sony Alpha Universe on March 7, 2023

See How These Photographers Make Creative Imagery With Long Exposures

2023-07-19T15:52:36-05:00

Long exposure photography opens up a world of creative possibilities, allowing you to capture stunning and unique images. By extending the exposure time of your camera, you can create captivating effects that are not visible to the naked eye. One of the most popular applications of long exposure is capturing mesmerizing light trails created by moving vehicles or stars in the night sky. Additionally, you can use this technique to smooth out water bodies, transforming turbulent waves into serene, misty surfaces. Long exposure is also great for capturing the graceful movements of people or objects, creating a sense of motion and dynamism in your photographs. Whether you're exploring urban landscapes, natural scenery, or experimenting with light painting, long exposure photography lets you unleash your creativity and produce breathtaking images that stand out from the crowd. Check out how these Sony users couple long exposures and the right subject to their advantage then head out and experiment for yourself. And for even more inspiration follow @SonyAlpha on Instagram.

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A post shared by Sarah H. Alsayegh (@sarah_alsayegh)

Sarah Alsayegh – @sarah_alsayegh

Sarah Alsayegh, a landscape photographer and storm chaser based in Kuwait, is an essential addition to your Instagram feed. She specializes in breathtaking landscapes featuring dramatic clouds and lightning bolts captured with her Sony Alpha 7R III or Sony Alpha 7R IV and using long exposures. During an interview on the Sony Alpha Photographers Podcast, Alsayegh shared valuable advice for aspiring storm chasers. Emphasizing the importance of caution, she stated, "you really need to be extra careful, you really need to know about the weather… usually some people end up in a very dangerous area… you always have to have an exit plan." Follow Alsayegh's work to witness her unique vision and learn from her expertise in the thrilling realm of storm chasing.

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A post shared by Filip Hrebenda Photography EP (@filiphrebenda)

Filip Hrebenda - @filiphrebenda

Filip Hrebenda is an accomplished fine-art landscape photographer, and a dedicated photo workshop leader. His portfolio showcases a distinct style marked by a masterful blend of colors, light, and lines found in natural landscapes. One striking example of his work, captured with the Sony Alpha 7R III and the Sony 16-35mm f/2.8 G Master lens, is the image displayed above. Through the technique of long exposure, Hrebenda skillfully captures the mesmerizing play of light and the dynamic flow of rushing water, creating a captivating and ethereal visual experience. His expertise in manipulating time through photography enables him to produce truly remarkable and evocative imagery.

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A post shared by Thibault Roland (@thibaultrolandphoto)

Thibault Roland - @thibaultrolandphoto

Thibault Roland is a photographer with a background in scientific research. Roland is fascinated by photography and how scientific concepts such as time and space can be integrated into this art. He explores this through long exposure photography, specifically long exposure black and white photography, and he’s mastered the camera setup for creating successful images in this style. The image above was made on the Sony Alpha 7R II paired with the Sony 70-200mm f/2.8 G Master. The photo is a 30-second exposure, we love the ethereal look and feel of his images! Learn more about how he does it in Camera Setup Tips For Long Exposure Black & White Photography.

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A post shared by Thearon Henderson (@thearonhenderson)

Thearon Henderson - @ThearonHenderson

Thearon Henderson, a highly skilled freelance sports photographer, who frequently works for Getty Images. Known for his exceptional talent, Henderson possesses a remarkable ability to capture the essence of action in his photographs. His expertise shines through his adeptness at freezing moments at the precise instant or skillfully employing motion blur techniques. The motion blur technique, although distinct from long exposure, evokes a similar sense of movement within the frame, enabling him to craft compelling narratives through the dynamic interplay of motion. Henderson's ability to convey stories through photography is truly exceptional, elevating his work to a league of its own.

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A post shared by ?????????? ?????????? (@sapnareddy)

Sapna Reddy - @SapnaReddy

Sapna Reddy, a physician, nature photographer, and Sony Brand Ambassador, curates a captivating Instagram account adorned with awe-inspiring landscapes from diverse corners of the globe. Among her remarkable collection is the image above. We are enthralled by the pop of colors that come from the trees, accentuated by the strong framing of the composition. Notably, Reddy's deliberate use of long exposure to soften the motion of the rushing water imparts a tranquil quality to the photograph, inviting a sense of serenity. Her artistic choices elevate the image, showcasing her keen eye for capturing the beauty of nature and imparting a soothing essence that resonates with viewers.

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A post shared by Grayson Kemp, BSN, RN (@new.perspectives.photo)

Grayson Kemp - @new.perspectives.photo

Grayson Kemp, an amateur photographer hailing from Albuquerque, New Mexico, possesses a passion for astrophotography, landscapes, and wildlife. With a deep appreciation for the Earth's exquisite beauty, Kemp uses photography as a medium to honor and celebrate this privilege. Through his captivating work, he aspires to inspire others to care about and protect nature and the Earth. In the image above, he skillfully uses long exposure techniques to capture the movement of the stars and adds a distinctive touch to the showcased image, setting it apart and enhancing its visual impact.

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A post shared by Ryan Ditch | California (@ryanditchphoto)

Ryan Ditch - @ryanditchphoto

Another great way to use long exposure is to stretch the lights from cars as they drive down the road. San Diego-based commercial photographer Ryan Ditch did just that with the image above, shot on the Sony Alpha 7R IV and Sony 16-35mm f/2.8 G Master. We love how you can see different types of light all throughout the frame. Starting with the trails of lights from cars long gone to the shining window lights from the tall buildings to the pinpricks of stars in the sky. This is a well-done image that really tells a story. Learn more about the gear he uses in What’s In My Bag: A New Camera + A Trio Of Zooms For Urban & Natural Landscapes.

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A post shared by Matt Stirn (@mattstirn)

Matt Stirn - @MattStirn

Photographer and archeologist Matt Stirn travels around the world photographing history, culture, and conservation stories for outlets including National Geographic and the New York Times. The image above was part of a story he photographed for Archeology Magazine about research in Italy. For this image he utilized light painting: a photographic technique that involves using controlled light sources to paint or draw in the frame during a long exposure, resulting in creative and visually stunning images. This is a technique Matt frequently employs to add visual interest to the artifacts he photographs. Learn more about Matt and his work HERE.

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L. Renee Blount - @UrbanClimbr

Adventure photographer, L. Renee Blount is based in the Bay area and is a Harvard-trained designer, creative strategist and storyteller. She works in innovation and storytelling to illuminate untold stories and to rethink the future. Check out this epic image from a recent expedition to Vietnam Blount made on the image on the Sony Alpha 7R V. This image uses long exposure to show the trail of light left by an adventurer's headlamp. It's a neat way to show someone exploring the cave, rather than a stagnant person in the frame.

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A post shared by Melissa Groo (@melissagroo)

Melissa Groo - @MelissaGroo

Melissa Groo, an Outdoor Photographer columnist, active member of the International League of Conservation Photographers, and a passionate wildlife advocate, has gained widespread recognition as one of the premier bird photographers in the field. Notably, she has contributed to the National Audubon Society by creating the influential Guide to Ethical Bird Photography. The image showcased above, captured by Melissa, exemplifies her exceptional talent and artistic eye. We love how she allowed motion blur to show the speed and movement of the bird. This is certainly long exposure compared to typical bird photography shutter speeds! When it comes to photographing birds, her go-to equipment includes the Sony Alpha 1 paired with the Sony 600mm f/4 G Master lens and Sony 2X Teleconverter, forming a formidable setup. To gain deeper insight into her photographic arsenal, check out "What's In My Bag: Conservation Photographer Melissa Groo's Gear For Ethical Wildlife Photography."

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A post shared by Matt Hernandez (@matthernandez)

Matt Hernandez – @MattHernandez

Senior portrait and sports photographer Matt Hernandez is well known for creating flawless portraits using his Sony gear and Westcott lights. His Instagram account is fun to scroll through because you get to see his stunning images and many behind the scenes clips. This really showcases how well Hernandez uses light to capture motion and tell a story. This image above is no exception, the student he photographed races drones so to share this in an image, Matt used a long exposure and had the drone circle the subject many times. This created a light trail around the subject and stars in the background! Swipe on the post to see the behind the scenes video of this creative shoot.

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Robert Evans – @robertevans

Robert Evans is a highly-regarded wedding photographer. He specializes in documentary-style weddings that capture the true essence and feel of the day. This can mean using motion blur to show the couple tearing up the dance floor like in the image above! Robert shot this on the Sony Alpha 7 III with the Sony 85mm f/1.4 G Master. His shutter speed was at 1/25-sec., which is slow for a wedding photographer who wants to be sure to nail every moment. We love the romantic feel of the blur along with the realistic tone the image sets.

This article was originally posted on July 14, 2023 at Sony Alpha Universe.

When Things Just Line Up: See How Autumn Schrock Created This Moon Masterpiece

2022-12-08T16:08:33-06:00

Autumn Schrock (@autpops) is a travel, astro and landscape photographer currently based out of Salt Lake City, Utah. The Sony Alpha Collective member is as passionate about the seas as she is the skies, and Schrock strives to showcase the immense beauty of our world by encouraging mindful exploration. In this article Autumn explains how she builds stunning images through multiple shots to showcase the beauty of the place.

Photo by Autumn Schrock. Sony Alpha 7R III. Sony 24-70mm f/2.8 G Master. Foreground: 1/8-sec., f/4.5, ISO 160. Moon: 1/80-sec., f/8, ISO 640.

Stumbling Upon A Scene

This photo belongs to my Happy Moonday collection, a photographic series that blossomed from my intense fascination with the moon. Gazing up at its golden reflection brings me peace and makes me feel at home, and I wanted to share that feeling with the world. Nobody likes Mondays, so I set out to cure those Monday blues with a series that I call Happy Moonday consisting of photographs of the moon saying hello over serene landscapes.

My partner and I were having our camper van converted when the pandemic struck in 2020. It was finished in the spring, so we opted for a desert road trip to escape out into nature. One of the first places we went was Valley of the Gods in southern Utah, and we originally chose this location to photograph the Milky Way. After using PhotoPills to align everything up for the stars, I realized that the moon was going to perfectly rise above this unique spire around sunrise.

As much as I'd like to say that I diligently planned this image out, I stumbled upon it. It’s fascinating to me how I often find myself in scenarios where I’m able to align the moon over remarkable landscapes with little to no planning. Time and time again, it seems that I get lucky when it comes to aligning the moon. But is it luck? Is it a coincidence? I am constantly stunned, but then I wonder if it’s simply my affinity for looking up—my curiosity for the worlds outside of our own.

Camera & Lens Combination For Low Light Travel Photography

I used my Sony Alpha 7R III and Sony 24-70mm f/2.8 G Master lens to create this image. Five years later and the Sony Alpha 7R III is still an amazing camera with excellent low-light capabilities and the resolution to allow me to crop in quite a bit. My Sony 24-70mm f/2.8 G Master lens is hands down my most-used lens. The versatility of that focal range matched with the wide aperture make it the perfect travel and landscape lens.

Experiment With Shooting & Editing

Usually when I photograph the moon at phases fuller than a crescent moon, I take multiple shots and combine them together for optimal exposure and composition. This photo is a combination of two images taken from a tripod: one taken at 47mm for the landscape and a second zoomed in to 70mm on the moon. I then combined and edited these two images using Adobe Photoshop. The moon is quite small at 47mm, so using the enlarged photo of the moon gives the composition a little more impact.

My camera settings for the foreground were: 1/8-sec., f/4.5, ISO 160 and my settings for the moon were: 1/80-sec., f/8, ISO 640. I needed to take two sets of exposures as the moon is quite bright at this phase and gets a little blown out with settings geared for the foreground. I wanted to photograph the foreground with a lower ISO for a cleaner image, but I wanted to stop my lens down to f/8 for the moon shot to sharpen it a bit.

Over the years, I’ve learned that it’s important to experiment and play around with different shooting and editing techniques to help find your voice and style. I encourage you to go out and explore as much as you can; you never know what amazing scene you'll stumble upon!

See more of Autumn Schrock’s work on her Alpha Universe Profile and on Instagram @autpops.

This article originally appeared on Sony Alpha Universe on 12/8/22.

Perfect Exposure Every Time: Understanding the Scale

2022-08-10T10:50:19-05:00

Understanding exposure is critical to ending up with the photo that you envisioned in your head. If the image has been taken brighter or darker than it should be, then it will either look washed out, or muddy and faded. So our goal is to help you understand in the best possible way how to get the “correct” exposure for any photo.

Aperture, shutter speed, and ISO affect how much light is transmitted to the sensor and play a role in the outcome of the image. For example, these settings change how much is in focus, if the photo has motion blur or is sharp, and how much noise is present in the picture.

This image would likely read into the negatives on your exposure meter because of the dark area, but you want to expose for the main subject

This group of settings is often referred to as the exposure triangle, but the settings don't have any relation to each other in that configuration, so we're not going to refer to it as such. In addition, we don't want to rely on memorization of settings to learn how to use our cameras; it will only take longer and be more frustrating. So instead, we will learn what each setting changes to understand better why we use each one.

Think of a sponge. If we want to fill it with just the right amount of water from a hose so that it is entirely wet, but the water is not leaking out we need to control how much water is hitting it and for how long. You can think of your aperture as the diameter of the hose; the wider it is, the more water (or light) comes through. Your shutter speed is how long the hose is turned on, and your ISO is how thick the sponge is. A thin sponge is like a high ISO, easy to fill up, but not as useful as a thicker sponge.

To know if your photo will turn out with the proper exposure you want, you will be looking at the exposure meter in your camera's viewfinder. There will be a little scale with a “0” in the middle and positive and negative 1, 2, and 3's left and right of it. This represents your RELATIVE exposure value.

When lined up at "0" on your scale, you get that middle-grey tone or the equivalent of that middle-grey in colour

When the light meter is lined up at 0, you will get a middle tone exposure. This does NOT mean that the photo is perfectly exposed, simply that it is in the middle of the tonal range. Correct exposure is going to be what you envision. For something dark and moody, you will probably want to line your meter up at -2 or maybe even more. If you are shooting a portrait, you probably want the skin tone to be+1 or +2. This scale is meant to be a reference point, not a target to hit the “0” mark.

For example, the photo used as the title image for this blog would probably be close to about +2 as an average reading on the scale in a camera because there is so much white creating a very bright reading. But that doesn't mean its overexposed, it means that there is more white tones throughout the image.

This is what happens when you take a photo of snow lining up the meter at "0", you get a middle tone image instead of white.

There are different metering modes available in modern digital cameras that will evaluate various areas of the frame, from an average of the whole image to a central spot. A spot meter can be very useful when you want to ensure that your exposure is bang on for one specific part of the frame because it will only read the exposure on that one particular spot, but play around with the different modes on your camera and see what works best for you!

Landscape Photography 101: Everything You Need to Know in One Place

2022-07-08T08:00:00-05:00

A beautiful vista overlooking a valley below with gorgeous sun-dappled light is something always to capture, whether it be for a print you want to hang in your house, an image you want to sell, or just for the memory of a good day out. For these reasons, landscape photography has long been the most common genre in photography and will likely continue to be so as time goes on.

While landscape photography may not be the most complex at the surface level, so many little facets come into play when composing and crafting the final image. True enough, if the landscape is absolutely stunning, it's pretty hard to take a bad photo! But there are always things that can be tweaked, improved upon, or changed simply to make it your image. This article will touch on as many technical aspects as possible that you can factor into your landscape photography and will be updated as often as possible with links to other blogs with more in-depth discussions about topics as we write them.

The Gear

Nearly any camera will work for landscape photography, so don't stress this point too much; begin working with what you already have! Cameras that are newer and cameras with larger sensors are ideal because they can capture more information in a single image. More detail is retained in highlights and shadows for editing, and colours are more accurate. This is the only aspect of a camera that truly matters in this genre, as you can take your time with everything else.

Lenses are the tools we will use to create a unique image better than our eyes can see. If you like the effect, a wide-angle lens will show a lot of information within a single shot, but it's not the only type of lens for landscapes! Telephoto lenses are great for focusing the image on a single significant aspect of a scene and simplifying the clutter. If you like minimalism, this is often the way to go. It's good to play around with different focal lengths to find out what jives with your creativity rather than trying to copy what is "normal." In addition, you do not need fast, heavy, expensive prime lenses as we usually shoot at F8-11, but they should be sharp with nice coatings.

TRIPOD. DO NOT IGNORE THIS. Seriously though, many photographers prefer to shoot handheld for the portability and out of laziness of not setting up a tripod, but it will save you frustration in the long run. You avoid any sort of handheld shake even if you think your shutter speed is high enough, and it allows you to fine-tune your composition and take multiple exposures with the exact same framing in case you need to stack images. So get a good sturdy tripod, but not something so big and heavy that you never take it with you.

Remote shutters/self-timers are a handy tool to use when your shutter speeds drop below 1/100s. When you have your camera on a tripod, you can use one of these options to keep your hands off the camera to avoid shaking it when the photo is being taken. Even a 2-second time makes a big difference!

Filters

This is a more prominent gear topic and deserves its own section on this blog page. Filters such as circular polarizers and neutral density (ND) filters are not often considered essential tools for photography, but they will bring the quality of your landscape photos to the next level by enhancing the mood you are going for in any image.

The majority of filters can be used either as a standalone tool or in conjunction with other filters to push the image into new realms beyond what you see literally. For example, you can create photos with dream-like, ethereal feelings, photos with extreme contrast between the sky and foreground, or photos with less haze and light pollution than we can see with the naked eye.

ND filters are used to darken the front of a lens using a neutral-coloured piece of glass to darken the scene. A longer shutter speed is used, and all movement that occurs during the shot is captured to create something new that we can't see. This is how people take images of waterfalls that look silky smooth.

Circular polarizers are used to reduce glare from the sun off of your subject. They can take the shine off leaves and windows and cut through the surface of calm water to see what's below. They also create more contrast in the sky by darkening the blue and making the clouds pop.

Composition

This one's the biggie. If your photo is poorly composed with a crooked horizon and trees half cut off in the frame, it will not turn out well. Composition refers to how you orient your camera within a scene to show the viewer a particular perspective of a subject.

There are a few main aspects to consider when choosing a composition. Firstly, you want to decide what your main subject is. It may be a lone tree on a hill, a river meandering through a valley, or a mountain prominently displayed on the horizon. Whatever it may be, that should stand out as the primary focal point of your image, and you should use everything else only to accentuate it.

Checking the edges of your frame is vital to ensure the viewer doesn't feel that something is missing from the image or dragging their eye away from the main subject.

Another crucial piece of the composition puzzle is how the image balances visually. There isn't a hard-fast way to determine this one, but you want to have a relatively even split of negative space throughout your image. For example, if you have your subject and all other details on one half of the photo and a blank sky across the other, the negative space of the sky will create an unbalance in the frame.

Locations!

Obviously, this is a very important consideration in your photo. An urban green strip will not offer as many photos as a mountainside meadow, so decide what kind of image you want to create and start looking for locations in whatever way you know how. Dropping pins on Maps when you notice a site while driving or hiking is an effective way to remember a potential shot. You can use Google Maps street view if you know you will be in a particular area but don't know the terrain all that well. This can give you a ballpark idea of what subject you want to shoot in advance, but give yourself time to find the best composition.

To give some unsolicited advice, don't go somewhere that has been photographed a million times over (*cough cough* Moraine Lake). Or, if you are at a trendy place, do something different; focus on another subject or experiment with something weird. Otherwise, you will have the same photo as everyone else with probably worse lighting than the best photos.

Tied into location is the time of day you choose to shoot at. Look at which direction your main subject is facing and ensure the sun is facing it. If you want to shoot during sunrise or sunset for golden hour, this part is critical, and reverse that thinking for blue hour. Once the sun has gone down (or before it rises), the entire foreground will be the same, low-contrast brightness level, but the skies directly behind what you are shooting will be lovely pastel tones.

Don't neglect shooting during the day just because people on the internet tell you not to! Very harsh light is admittedly hard to use, but filtered sunlight through a canopy can be beautiful, and overcast will allow different opportunities. Plus, it gives you more time to work on your skills of composition and exposure.

Getting Sharp Photos

Unfortunately, every composition, location and camera lens will be different, so we can't make definitive statements. But we can give you tips for the best possible outcome!

Manually focus your lens to avoid having the camera second guess what you want the main subject to be; it happens all too often when we trust the technology entirely! If you have a low, wide-angle shot composed, you will need to either prioritize what is the most essential aspect to focus on or take multiple photos focusing on different planes, then combine them in post.

As far as camera settings go, set your ISO to its native resolution (usually 100 ISO) and your aperture to F8-F13, whichever that lens is sharpest at. It is generally worth taking 20 minutes to test your lenses to see where they perform their best, but when in doubt, F11 is safe. Finally, set your shutter speed to wherever it needs to be for the exposure value you want. Often this shutter speed can be low, which is why we use a tripod! But if it's breezy, you may need to compromise your ISO a bit to raise the shutter speed.

Editing

We will paint with some very broad strokes as you can get incredibly in-depth when editing RAW photos. If the sky is present in your image, bringing the highlights down can add definition to any clouds or gradations in colour, and lifting shadows but adding some depth to the blacks will create clean contrast.

When tweaking the photo's colours, an overlooked factor is to create contrast in the highlight and shadow colour. As an example, the orange-cyan colour combo makes an eye-catching pop to the image (to use an overplayed trope.) When you move your shadows From a deep blue to a cyan and your highlights to an orange hue, your colours contrast each other creating more separation between elements. This same idea can be applied using any opposite colours on the colour wheel, and either colour could be highlights or shadows. This technique is best done subtly unless you're making a movie poster or going for a stylized effect.

Exposure

Getting your exposure dialled in perfectly is critical to ending up with your envisioned photo. While we can pull back a lot of overexposed parts of a RAW image, the colour, contrast, and detail will never be quite the same as if we got it correct in-camera; the same goes for shadow details. So how do you know your exposure will be what you are looking for?

Firstly, envision the image's most important subject and decide how bright you want that part to be, whether that is positive or negative on the EV scale. Now, you can use spot metering on your camera's metering system or an external light meter to determine the settings to get the brightness you want on that particular subject.

If those settings interfere with the exposure of the rest of the image, you can shift brighter or darker a little bit to balance the rest of the frame. Alternatively, you can use filters to darken areas that are too bright. Several tools on your camera can help you ensure an even exposure for your image, such as the histogram.

For more details on exposure, we have another blog post dedicated to explaining it: https://a8842.americommerce.co...

Conclusion

While landscape photography seems relatively simple on the surface, there is much more to it than taking photos of a nice location or scene. There are many aspects to consider and get the approach right to end up with the best possible image to fit the vision of the scene you have in front of you. So the best thing you can do is go out and practice! Even if it's just the lake near your house, the techniques and skills are the same and going out often will ensure you are ready when on a big photo outing.

6 Tips for Beginning Wildlife Photography!

2022-05-04T10:00:00-05:00

There are few things as impressive as a well-crafted wildlife photo. A vivid image of a wild animal can appear so phenomenally lifelike it can feel like the creature is right in front of you. It can be intimidating to think of all the things that need to come together in order to snap a genuinely great wildlife photo. The camera settings, what gear you need, and honestly, where do you even find all these animals? Well, let's break down a few things to help get you started in the wild world of wildlife photography.

Where are all the animals?

This may be an unsatisfying answer, but it depends on your location. Unfortunately, we can't pinpoint every spot in the province where you will be able to find wildlife, but we can give you clues on what to search for!

Wetlands and marshes are pretty much a guarantee for sighting some sort of bird or water mammal. So if waterfowl are your target, this is the place to look. Larger mammals like bears and moose prefer wooded areas where they can find cover from the elements and various food sources. Predatory birds such as eagles, hawks, and owls can be in almost any location with some tree coverage and will mostly come down to local knowledge about their hunting zones. If you have a buddy that's already into wildlife photography, they might be able to give you some location tips!

It's not all about the gear, but it helps.

Most genres of photography are more about your craft rather than the equipment you have access to, but since animals do not like humans very much, you need a lens that will help you keep some distance. The Sony 200-600mm f/5.6-6.3 G provides an excellent range for any wildlife, from the smallest of birds to the moose just off the side of the road. In addition, its sharp optics stand up to the scrutiny of high-resolution sensors like that of the Sony A7R IV or the Alpha 1. Both of the mentioned cameras offer animal eye-detect autofocus, which tracks your subject as it moves around to ensure that every shot of your 30 frames per second burst is razor sharp and in focus!

Sony 600mm F4 G

If you want the best of the best lenses, then the Sony 400mm f/2.8 and 600mm f/4 G Master are the pinnacle of telephoto lenses. They give you the benefits of getting in tighter to your subject without sacrificing light transmission to your sensor. Exotic primes are not very common for most people to own, but if you can get your hands on one even to try, you'll understand why they're so coveted!

Stability will provide sharp images

Sometimes carrying heavy lenses & lots of gear can be tiring. If your arms are experiencing fatigue, a monopod will take the weight off. If you're shooting handheld, steady the lens by bracing your elbows on your stomach or on your knees if you're able to sit. Optical Steady Shot (OSS) or image stabilization will absolutely help eliminate some of those little jitters when shooting handheld at 600mm!

Ursus Americanus (black bear) by Junichi Noguchi

Setup Your Camera Specifically for YOU!

Any camera right out of the box will not be set up for wildlife photography, and it won't be set up according to your preferences. Everyone's mind works differently, and buttons will make more sense with specific settings attached to them. Modern Interchangeable Lens Cameras (ILCs) will allow for a vast amount of options to tailor the camera for how you shoot, and you will perform much better out in the field if you sit down for an hour and set everything.

If you aren't sure how certain features affect the camera's performance, reading articles or watching videos about your camera will clear up confusion and give ideas you may not have thought of! If you have a newer Sony camera, check out Colby Brown's setup tips in the article linked below for a few quick tips on setup for wildlife photography. For example, suppose you are comfortable with the layout of your camera's functions and the way the autofocus system locks on. In that case, you will be able to operate faster and have a higher percentage of keeper photos!

Dress for the elements

The creatures we are looking at through the lens have been evolving and adapting to their environment for millennia and don't need raincoats or gloves, but we sure do! So always make sure you check what the weather is going to be where you are heading out, and if the conditions could change, make sure you're prepared for the worst. This doesn't just pertain to cold or wet conditions, but also hot and sunny days. Sunscreen and hats are essential on blistering days!

If you are out shooting in highly dusty or slightly wet conditions, having weather-sealed gear will ensure that you can keep using your favourite equipment for years to come. Generally, all higher-end and professional gear will have some degree of protection from the elements, such as any Sony G Master lens.

Gray Wolf by Philip Nguyen

Familiarize Yourself With Shooting in Low-Light

In landscape photography, it's pretty common knowledge that the best times of day for photos are either early morning or later evening to get beautiful lighting and good contrast, which holds true for wildlife. The colours in the sky and the light coming from the sun are much more pleasing outside mid-day, but the downside is that it is not as bright.

Being familiar with your camera and how high you can push your ISO is vital to consistently get good photos. If you know that conditions will be tricky and your ISO performance isn't very good, it may be worth bringing a tripod to lower your shutter speed, even with a long lens. Keep in mind the animals are still moving, so it can't be too slow, but you can likely drop it lower than if you didn't have the extra stability.

Stellar's Sea Eagle by Junichi Noguchi

Wildlife photography is one of the most complex genres of photography, both technically with equipment and physically regarding where the subjects reside. But it is also one of the most rewarding when you finally get that shot you've been dreaming of! The most helpful tip we can offer is to consistently get out there to practice your skills and learn wildlife movement patterns and locations. There will be a definitive improvement in your photos over time!

Check out to links below to a couple of Alpha Universe posts on wildlife photography

https://alphauniverse.com/stories/colby-brown-on-how-to-setup-for-wildlife-photography/

https://alphauniverse.com/stories/five-quick-tips-for-beginner-wildlife-photographers/

Getting Started Editing Your Photos

2022-02-02T12:40:00-06:00

Editing digital photos is one of the most significant challenges to wrap your head around while learning photography. The most common question is where to start?

After selecting your favourite image from the set, adjust the exposure, contrast, highlights, and shadows. Using only these settings will give you a good idea of what you need to change next time you're out shooting to improve your photos.

Before you start adjusting the photo:

Think to yourself about what you want the end image to look like.
Set the exposure to match the most important feature in the image, making it either brighter or darker than the rest of the scene, so it grabs your attention.
Adjust the blacks and whites of the photo to where you think they look the best providing the contrast you like.

From this point, there is a whole world of editing to discover, so play around and have fun!

Winter Photo Ideas: Frozen Soap Bubbles

2022-02-02T10:18:00-06:00

Are you looking for something to photograph during this cold winter? Then it's time to go to the snowy yard and blow soap bubbles on flowers, bushes and branches! The soap bubbles freeze quickly in our Arctic temperatures giving you a chance to take a few macro photos of something unique!

All you need is water, dish soap, corn syrup and sugar to make the bubbles strong enough not to pop when they land on a surface. And since you don't need any particular location to do this, you can step outside your door and get it done before getting so cold your fingers can't feel the camera. So try it out and share your results with us!

Photo by Julian on Unsplash